“We’re a British food group with an Irish twist — very unique to Southern Colorado,” says Nova as we are all seated around a fire pit on the patio of WestFax Springs just around the corner from imminently opening Codswallop!
Yes, there’s an exclamation point in that business name. Surely you know Nova by now from the Fox21 show Loving Living Local. The “Irish sprinkle” refers to business partner Martin Troy — a native Dubliner and downtown fixture for 22 years at Jack Quinn’s Irish Pub & Restaurant before he took off to join business partner Steve Jones at The Brit up north (at a since-closed location). And number four: well, that’s Executive Chef Phil Griffin, who you might recognize from his time at TILL and Cansano (part of the 4North project).
Jones also operated The Chippy on Austin Bluffs Parkway before launching The Brit, but he opted to close it after four years (back in June, 2023), having gotten spread thin between the two outfits, he says. The Brit shuttered this past August, but not for good, as it will be reopening just outside of the Switchbacks FC stadium at 645 S. Sierra Madre St. on the ground level of the Experience at Epicenter apartment complex — tentatively in late March, 2025.
Which brings us back to Codswallop! and that exclamation point. Think of Codswallop! as the little sister to The Brit, opening ahead of it — soft open sometime next week pending final inspections — to chum the waters, as it were. Located in the former Pomodoro’s Deli spot at 3012 W. Colorado Ave., Codswallop! will be mainly a takeout spot (with very limited seating) and feature a tight and affordable menu of fish & chips, pasties (not the things that cover nipples; the doughy British pastries) and side items that range from Scotch Eggs and poutine to baked beans and mushy peas.
One unique aspect to the offerings is not just a single fish & chips option, but a choice between wild Atlantic Haddock ($11), wild Atlantic Cod ($10) or swai ($7) to be even more budget friendly. For all of them, “it’s the authentic batter you’d get in England, which we’ll make it small batches multiple times a day,” says Chef Griffin, who — legendary story coming here — worked for Michelin three-star chef Marco Pierre White back in the day at famed London eatery Mirabelle. (There’ll also be a gluten-free version with a devoted fryer, though the guys caution that it won’t be a fully sterile gluten-free kitchen for those severely allergic.)
To get a rise out of the four Brits, I ask about the “french fry” prep and watch their faces contort as they all make various groaning sounds and instantly correct me: “No! It’s chips! Don’t put French Fries!” Nova pleads. Once the disgruntled chorus dies down, I learn they will make their own chips in house. And ditto on the rough puff pastry for the pasties, which Griffin describes as sort of a short crust with ample butter in layers that entails lots of rolling and folding to achieve an ideal, lightly flaky texture in the end. Flavor options are: steak & ale, chicken & veg or cheese & onion.
A couple more treats not currently listed on the online menu will be an array of imported English and Irish soft drinks exclusive to the area (outside of retail import markets) and Chef Griffin’s sticky toffee pudding for dessert. Griffin says he’s tweaked some of his own recipes and worked with Jones on some of The Brit’s existing preparations. Essentially, it’s a team effort. “We all sing from the same hymn sheet,” says Nova, noting that the effort behind both ventures is “because we miss our home comforts. What better way than to do it ourselves?” Jones chimes in to say that’s why he started The Chippy in the first place, too, because he was unsatisfied with local offerings.
We’ll circle back here in Side Dish closer to The Brit’s opening next year (in time for the launch of the returning USL champion Switchbacks’ season, the guys hope). Meanwhile, keep an ear/eye out for the opening of Codswallop! next week, and expect to see some crossover with WestFax Springs, as I’m told they’ll display QR codes with the Codswallop! menu for their craft beer drinkers, and the crew at Codswallop! will dash food across the parking lots between them. Says Troy: “You can’t beat a pint and fish & chips.”
Beef Bolognese with Red Gravy and Ranch Foods Direct
Welcome to December and our next collaboration recipe with Ranch Foods Direct and our latest guest, Chef Eric Brenner of Red Gravy. He shares his versatile Bolognese Tomato Sauce, which Red Gravy utilizes on its Bucatini Bolognese, baked lasagna and as a dipping sauce for the toasted ravioli plate. “I like to do a really traditional Bolognese which is more meat and spice like nutmeg and no tomato, and then do our sauce which adds tomato for what most people want,” Brenner tells me as we’re laying this recipe out together. As soon as my photo shoot is over, I dive into the Bucatini Bolognese (pictured on the recipe page) and devour the bowl of noodles shamelessly. I eye the lasagna and think better of downing more carbs in one sitting, so I box it for home and savor the sauce all over again that evening. Swing by Ranch Foods Direct for two pounds of Callicrate ground beef to execute Brenner’s recipe easily at home, then duck into Red Gravy later to compare your handiwork to the professionals’.
* Catch Ranch Foods Direct’s Mike Callicrate on a Building Regional Food Systems Facebook Live event at 11 a.m., Dec. 9, hosted by the Permaculture Institute of North America. He’ll be discussing local food hubs and “the role of a rancher in a sustainable future” among topics.
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Grain to glass with Ascent Beverage on Tap&Table
Our latest Tap&Table episode features Side Dish Dozen member Ascent Beverage, a local distributor who operates quietly behind the scenes to stock some of the finest bars in Colorado Springs (and across the state) with boutique craft spirits. While yes, we shout-out a bunch of those brands and what makes each of them unique, this episode also focuses on educating the general public about the world of small craft distribution and how the sausage (er, um, spirits) gets made.
To some extent, Ascent’s story as a business amounts to a David and Goliath tale of a scrappy little enterprise going up against the mass-market brands of the world and their giant machine of supply and distribution. Think volume: cargo ships loaded with containers of imported bottles; 18 wheelers ferrying stacked pallets to warehouse docks; forklifts delivering bundles to big accounts. Then picture Ascent partner James Wieker hand-loading his pickup truck at tiny outfits like 1874 Distilling in Del Norte and personally transporting boxes of San Luis Valley Potato Vodka (and several other craft spirits and liqueurs) to small accounts across the Front Range and beyond, from liquor stores to local restaurants. It’s a nano operation.
Great chefs will tell you good ingredients make good food, and similarly the best mixologists know that a cocktail’s as good as the individual products that inform it. Jackson Hole Still Works’ double cask Absaroka gin (distributed by Ascent) stands as just one example of a top-shelf spirit that many Springs bartenders have vouched for and placed on their seasonal menus. As we note in the episode — with Jackson Hole Still Works’ Founder and Partner Chas Marsh as one of our guests — Absaroka is currently on cocktail menus and/or bar shelves at Four By Brother Luck and District Elleven as just two examples of local-industry-leading bars where standards are high for what’s stocked.
In discussing the term “grain to glass” in the episode, we cover the ethos of sustainability and true local sourcing. I make a case for considering Jackson Hole as being local to us given it's one state over and utilizing non-GMO and organic ingredients grown in their region — that’s compared to any liquor shipped internationally obviously, or even American-made products that source grains globally or elsewhere in the country. Everything has a carbon footprint somewhere, sure, but via Ascent Beverage’s limited distribution network many products tether beautifully to our marketplace with less mileage incurred. Even having Apple Valley Cider Co. hard ciders brought up from Penrose (home to many apple orchards) just an hour away places a more-local (and excellent) product in Springs restaurant coolers compared to big-brand Angry Orchard or Woodchuck Hard Cider bottles, etc.
Simply put, Ascent’s work as the middlemen — representing a curated batch of passionate makers in the region and helping tell their stories and introduce their products to consumers — equates to taste-making and cultural enrichment. Our scene is better for their contribution, invisible as it may be to the drinker on the bar stool. That is, until they recognize that bottle of Absaroka on the back bar and know that it signifies a savvy cocktail program. Watch the episode and find out if anything you’ve drank recently comes from Ascent’s portfolio, and go behind-the-scenes with these respective makers and distributors to hear how handling the hooch happens.
*Dec. 12: Spirit Makers’ Sip With Schnip at Bunzy’s & Booze with Ascent Beverage. 5-9 p.m.; cocktails will be 50 percent off for Side Dish subscribers. Drinks made with products from: Big Lost Meadery, Jackson Hole Still Works, Apple Valley Cider Co., Backwards Distilling, Arcola Whiskey, 1874 Distilling and Robb's Red Rumm.
Bites & Bits
• Diavolo Pueblo hot chicken has finished its time with Fuel & Iron Food Hall (19 months to be exact) and teased its social media to say: “What’s next for Diavolo? Follow Bingo Burger [Pueblo] to find out!” Well, call me impatient, or just a go-getter, but I couldn’t wait that long. So I hollered at co-creator Richard Warner to ask what we should expect. Fortunately he was in an open-book mood, and shared that on Jan. 1, 2025, Bingo Burger Pueblo will effectively absorb Diavolo and begin serving its most popular items, including the crispy chicken sandwiches, chicken tenders and Motherclucking Wafflewich. “We’re going to pare the Bingo menu down just a bit to make room,” Warner says, adding that he’s “had some crazy thoughts of putting crispy hot chicken with a Bingo burger patty on a single sandwich.” We mused over the idea during our phone call, discussing the potentiality and important considerations, leaving it up in the air whether it will happen or not. But Warner sounded ready to put his mad scientist (er, um, chef’s hat) on and do some R&D in the kitchen. So, back to the initial tease, I’d say stay tuned to Bingo’s socials find out. Meanwhile, the C. Springs Bingo Burger location, which was closed in mid October due to fire damage, remains under restoration with no information at this time regarding reopening.
• Westside Cantina closed at the end of November citing the rising cost of rent, utilities, food and wages, but posted on their Instagram page to say they’ll be opening a new concept in a smaller location nearby in Old Colorado City. They say they’ll maintain vegan, vegetarian and GF options and that the menu will be “smaller yet elevated” with “even better cocktails.”
• China Town Restaurant plans to close at 326 S. Nevada Ave. at the end of the year. Earlier this week, The Gazette spoke with owner Eva Zhang, who they reported has had the business for the past 24 of its 50-plus years. As for the why: “Zhang said her building lease is up at the end of the year and she decided not to renew her contract for several reasons: a near doubling of her monthly rent, difficulty hiring employees and increasing food costs.”
• Not a restaurant or bar for the purposes of this newsletter, but a locally beloved food-adjacent business: Buckley’s Homestead Supply announced this week that it will be closing in January 2025 after 12 years in business. “Little by little, the obstacles became too much to overcome,” wrote Allison Buckley in her announcement. “…We lost several vendors because they didn’t want to work with small businesses any longer, and of course, the ever-present competition from big box stores and Amazon…” When I had ducks in recent years (before the neighborhood raccoons ruined that party for me), I bought my organic feed ad Buckley’s and had come to appreciate the convenient urban location (across from Cerberus Brewing) for goods typically sold in more rural areas. Plus the staff were genuinely warm and friendly. For those wanting to see Buckley’s off in style, Allison asks for you to consider some Christmas shopping or stocking up on necessary backyard supplies to help clear the existing inventory; food deliveries will continue through December’s end.
• Rocky Bowl Bistro has soft opened at 6821 Space Village Ave. as an Asian fusion spot with breakfast and lunch offerings. Signature bowls include Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese and Korean items. There’s also American plates like burgers and chicken sandwiches. Attend a grand opening celebration, Dec. 9, to get 20-percent off your purchase and a free drink. I’m planning to attend a media invite on Dec. 6 and might have some details for you in my next newsletter.
• Ryan Wanner of Golden Pine Coffee Roasters (reestablished in Black Forest) wrote the following in his newsletter this week. It struck me as worth sharing wider:
Something interesting is going on in the coffee world. Commodity pricing has spiked to levels not seen since 1977. While I don't source commodity coffees —think the red tin cans at the grocery store — when the commodity pricing surges this strongly it has an effect on the specialty pricing too. There are a lot of reasons being thrown around: weather events, European deforestation regulations, logistics issues, and an overall global political uncertainty. So what does that mean for us? Unclear. I know that the price of one of my core coffees jumped 6% overnight. It's something I'm keeping a close eye on for sure. I will say this however: coffee has historically been underpriced for the amount of work that goes into getting the coffee from seedling to your cup. I have more information on that on our website.
• As highlighted this past week in Inside the News in Colorado, a Colorado College student in her first year at the school has started her own Substack named The Meal Plan Guard. It’s focused around food insecurity, and offers readers on campus tips on where to find free food. The college’s The Peak newsletter profiled her here, noting her Ukrainian heritage, extensive community service and plans for the project.
• Holiday treat inspiration: make giant cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing via Chef Jason Miller’s recipe at Springs blog site Season Two Taste.
• Who’s killin’ it on social media this week? Chiba Bar (as always) and ICONS (welcome back!).
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Red Gravy: Join us for our next Sunday Supper Club on Dec. 8. Chef Eric has put together a lavish Feast of Seven Fishes menu, which includes Caponata bruschetta with marinated white anchovy; sea scallops with fennel, salsa verde and butter sauce; and seared ahi tuna with olive relish and basil. 5:30 p.m.; $125.
• Blue Star Group: We’re re-introducing our Community Constellations program at Stellina Pizza Cafe. If you know of a non-profit or local organization who could use extra help, have them visit stellinapizza.co/community-constellations and sign up for a dine-in event date. Stellina will donate 10% of all in-cafe sales to the participant!
• The French Kitchen: Shop online from our beautiful new Holiday Catalogue. And make it easy on yourself with holiday catering from The French Kitchen. Also shop our Taste of December specials, including figgy pudding and sugar plum queenets.
• T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila: Our taco of the month is Chef Dustin Archuleta’s Pato à l’Orange: roasted duck with a cilantro orange sauce and butternut squash and black bean pico. Taco Tuesdays feature $3.50 tacos all day and $5 Margaritas and Swirls. Our new $11.99 lunch special gets you chips & salsa, two tacos, rice, beans and a fountain drink; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.
• Eleven18 Latin Tapas Bar: We have e-gift cards available for holiday gifting. December cooking classes have sold out quickly, but spots remain for Chef Brother Luck’s Dec. 11 Roasted Lamb & Rosemary Potatoes class. Keep an eye out for future Cocktail Club experiences with Jacob Pfund.
• Edelweiss: We have a mug of warm Glühwein (German mulled wine) waiting for you. Make reservations early for December dates as we host lots of Christmas parties. Christmas cookies and Weihnachtsstollen (Christmas Stollen) and are now available through year’s end for retail purchase.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Bleating Heart Night, 5-9 p.m., Dec. 10, benefitting Happy Cats Haven. Trivia, 6:30-8:30 p.m., Dec. 11. Singo Music Bingo - Vibes: Rock Bar, 6-8 p.m., Dec. 12.
• The Carter Payne: Introducing our first ever 12 Beers of Christmas series! A dozen new beers will roll out as the season progresses. Watch our Facebook page for release dates and more info. Other upcoming event nights here. Book your function with us.
• Bristol Brewing Company: Around here we think the best way to shop for the holidays is with a beer in your hand. The Bristol Merch Store is chock full of fun swag right now. Stop in, grab a beer and shop Laughing Lab notebooks, Pikes Peak topo Nalgenes, hop socks, beanies, Teku glasses, Ivywild and Bristol shirts and more (whew!). Spend $100 in merch and get a $20 Bristol gift card to use on your next visit!
• Allusion Speakeasy: Current theme is👇
• Kangaroo Coffee: We've launched our annual gift card celebration. Purchase a $25 card for family/friends (or yourself) and receive a $5 coupon thank you! We also have tasty holiday drinks created by our creative baristas for you to enjoy!
• Odyssey Gastropub: We’re offering pre-cooked take-and-bake items for your Christmas gatherings: 9-inch rosemary-garlic-cranberry focaccia loaves ($12) and a 9-inch pie tin of cinnamon rolls ($15). Order by Dec. 20 for Christmas Eve pickup; limited quantities will be sold on-site for walk-ins, Dec. 20-24.
• Rasta Pasta: Order online for convenience. Three unconventional pasta ingredients in our Tortellini Jamaica Mon: pineapple, bananas and grapes. Happy hour daily from 3-5 p.m. with $3 Red Stripes, $4 rum punch and $5 munchies.
• Jackson Hole Still Works: Stop into Four By Brother Luck for Mixologist Kyle McNerney’s Corner of Gravier & Carondelet cocktail featuring JHSW’s Double Cask Absaroka Gin with brown sugar, apple cider, cream and egg whites. Proudly distributed locally by Side Dish Dozen member Ascent Beverage.
Upcoming events
• Dec. 5: Electric Moonlight at the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. 5:30-8:30 p.m.; $79.75. All-inclusive samplings of food, beer, wine and spirits; live music and over 85 staff-made light sculptures throughout the Zoo.
• Dec. 6: NEAT Whiskey House Prohibition & Anniversary Party. 6-10 p.m. Dress to impress.
• Dec. 7: Go Elf Yourself at Benny’s Lounge. 2-5 p.m., prior to downtown’s Parade of Lights. $10 tickets benefit Downtown Ventures/Art on the Streets. “Enjoy Elf-themed drink/shot specials like the Angry Elf, Cotton-headed Ninny Muggins, Glitter Snow Globe, the Bad Santa & more.” Come in costume for a chance to win a $100 gift card.
• Dec. 8: Cocktail Class with Montana at 3 Hundred Days Distilling. 6:30-8 p.m.; $45. (Enjoy Small Town Christmas in Monument with a tree lighting the night prior.)
• Dec. 12: Spirit Makers’ Sip With Schnip at Bunzy’s & Booze with Ascent Beverage. 5-9 p.m.; cocktails will be 50 percent off for Side Dish subscribers. Drinks made with products from: Big Lost Meadery, Jackson Hole Still Works, Apple Valley Cider Co., Backwards Distilling, Arcola Whiskey, 1874 Distilling and Robb's Red Rumm.
Parting shot (s)
If you’re a paid-level subscriber, you’ve already received an email from me this week regarding 20 fun food and drink adventures during my partly working vacation abroad, from the Azores islands to the Iberian Peninsula. Freebie readers: I love you too, and you can do a free trial to get behind the paywall or take a one-time look if you haven’t already. Or wait a month until the article’s free for all to read.
Anyway, my first of those 20 teasers relates to penis pastries in Amarante, which is actually a centuries-old religious thing, not a modern pastry abomination meant for dick bait … I mean, um, click bait. Still, I had a lot of fun both dining on the cream-filled sweet (yes, they did go there) and documenting it. So, next time some jerk tells me to “eat a bag of dicks” I can now say “well, maybe … are they from Amarante?”
